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June 14, 2018
The nozzles come with different output diameters (0.25; 0.30; 0.35; 0.4; 0.5; 0.6; 0.8 mm). Normally the 0.4 mm nozzle is supplied with the machine. The choice of the nozzle that we choose for the printer depends on the speed and resolution that we want to define for the
piece. For example, a 0.3 mm diameter nozzle allows a higher resolution than a 0.5 mm diameter nozzle. Larger diameters allow for thicker layers and more resistant parts, while smaller diameters allow for parts with sharper details and thinner perimeters.
There are also differences in printing speed - smaller nozzles take longer to print a part.
It is not advisable to change the nozzle every day since a bad manipulation can break the extruder. However, if we are careful, we can make the changes that we think are necessary.
The beaks come with a very precise diameter, in this case Bronze (this is a good transmitter of temperature), which is ideal for soft materials such as ABS and PLA. Now when we use an abrasive material such as PLA carbon fiber, material that glows in the dark and those with metallic loads produce wear of the nozzle, so if you are going to use these types of materials is recommended to use a hardened steel nozzle, the problem is that this does not transmit the temperature well for a good performance must increase the temperature of the machine.
Ensure that the printer is not hot by setting the target temperature to 0℃. Set the value in Control > Temperature > Nozzle
After making sure that the equipment is at room temperature, we remove the two upper screws with a metric allen wrench for M4 screw. Without disconnecting the cables, we place the board on the smooth rods to work comfortably.
Then, remove the silicone cover if you still have it. You can print with or without the cover, it serves both an aesthetic and a temperature insulating function.
We heat the extruder to 270º C.
Once the printer reaches the target temperature we will remove the nozzle. With the French wrench we immobilize the whole block.
With the key that comes in the nozzle pack (holding it with a glove or rag for safety reasons) we take the nozzle and turn it to the left if we are facing the machine.
We finish untightening with the hand (covered with a glove or rag) until it is removed.
To place the new nozzle we must make sure that it is hot 270º .
Place the spout with the hand again covered by glove or rag, clockwise or to the right. Tighten by hand until the thread enters the nut.
trideo-peak-change-1
Then, with the French wrench holding the block and with the wrench that comes in the nozzle pack (covered by glove or rag) turn clockwise applying the force that one can do with two fingers.
NOTE: Technically the force to apply is 3 N.m . The nozzle must not be too loose because it will start to drip plastic. On the other hand, if we tighten it too much we run the risk of breaking the Hot-End. The nozzle must be tightened fully without distorting the thread of the heater block.
Once we have the extruder with the new nozzle we cool down in cooldown function (target temperature 0).
Once it is cool we put back the silicone protector and the fan layer in position with the two screws that we removed in step 1.
Since it is unlikely to place a new peak at the same height as the previous one was. It is likely that we will need to adjust the bed leveling. For manually adjusted equipment, simply run the bed leveling function and adjust manually. For self-leveling equipment, we must adjust the BLTouch Z-offset values.
This can be found in Motion > Z-Offset . Remember that if the first deposited layer does not adhere, increase the absolute value by 0.05 mm (e.g. from -0.95 to -1 mm).
Otherwise reduce the absolute value by 0.05 mm.
After changing a value, press the Store Memory option.
If the exchanged peak has a different diameter, we must adjust the values in the slicing software to indicate that we are working with a different peak diameter.
